Steps
for Building a Pond
The first step to consider is to decide what type of pond you want
to build. You should consider what type of aquatic life you want in
the pond. Is it going to be a home for goldfish or koi? Or is your
main concern for the aquatic plants? Perhaps you only want the pond
for the sound of a waterfall. Each type of pond will need to be planned
for its specific features. Keep in mind that the most common mistake
water gardeners say they made when building their first pond was making
it too small. A small pond limits the number of fish and plants you
can add.
KOI POND
A koi pond is different from a water garden because koi limit the
amount of plant life available to be grown. Simply put: koi eat
some plants. A koi pond should also be larger because koi get quite
large despite the size of the pond, it is recommended that a koi
pond be no less than 1000 gallons in volume, the bigger the better.
It also needs to have an area of the pond at least 3 feet deep,
4 - 5 may be better.
WATER GARDEN
A water garden typically contains both goldfish and a variety of
aquatic plants. Water gardens in moderate climates usually need
for an area of the pond to be at least 2 feet deep. Colder climates
require a depth to provide at least 12" to 16" of water
below the freeze zone.
The second step in establishing a new pond is to select the proper
location. Most ponds will be enjoyed more if they are installed
close to the home. Select an area where you can see the pond year
round. Ponds are great attracters of wildlife including birds and
butterflies. Position the pond where runoff from rain will not flow
into the pond. This may carry fertilizers, chemicals, and organic
debris into the pond. It may be necessary to alter the terrain to
accommodate this. Avoid placing a pond too close to trees. Falling
leaves and other debris will need to be removed from the pond. You
will want to place your pond where it will receive at least 4 to
6 hours of direct sun if you want grow water lilies. Shade is fine
for fish-only ponds. Water circulation is not essential but the
use of a pump will allow you to keep more fish, it will keep your
plants healthier. A pump is required to run a filter, fountain,
or waterfall. The sound of running water adds greatly to the enjoyment
of the pond. Most ponds will benefit from the use of a biological
filter. This is essential if you are keeping koi or more than a
few goldfish. We have several types of biological filters to choose
from.
Now you need to determine the size of your pond or water garden.
The best way to do this is to use a rope or water hose and lay out
the shape on the ground. A pond for goldfish or water lilies need
be only about 2 feet deep for zones 5 or greater. Ponds built in
colder areas may need more depth to keep the pond from freezing
solid. Ponds built for koi should be close to three feet or deeper
to allow these larger fish enough space. The biggest mistake that
most people make is building the pond or water garden too small.
A larger pond is more stable and easier to maintain. Keep in mind
that a finished pond or water garden will be about 30% smaller than
you visualize it. After you have laid out the shape, measure the
maximum length and width. Add the depth twice to these measurements
plus a foot or two for overlap and this will give you the pond liner
size.
Dig the pond
or water garden to the desired shape and dig a shelf around the
perimeter of the pond about one foot deep and one or more feet wide.
Dig the remainder of the pond with a slight slope to the end opposite
the waterfall if one is included in the design.
Position any external pond filters and/or pond skimmers and level
these in their proper location. Pond skimmers should be buried to
the proper level beside the pond. A ditch should be dug for the
plumbing from the pond to the waterfall or external pond filter.
If a pond skimmer is being used, dig a ditch to the external pond
pump and from the pump to the external pond filter or waterfall.
If you are using a submersible pump in the pond skimmer then the
ditch will be from the skimmer to the external pond filter or waterfall.
Line the pond
or water garden excavation with Pond Underlayment. This can be cut
with scissors or a utility knife. You may want to tape any small
pieces together to keep them from moving when the pond liner is
placed.
Place the rubber pond liner into the excavation and unfold. Position
the liner evenly in the pond. Try to minimize folds and wrinkles
but some will be necessary. After the water is added the folds should
flatten out.
Pond waterfalls and streams can be excavated now. An external pond
filter or waterfall tank can be positioned to create the first waterfall.
This can be placed to spill directly into the pond in which case
the pond liner is held against the pond filter until you are able
to stack stone from the pond shelf up against the pond filter to
create a waterfall. If a small pool or stream is desired then excavate
this several inches deep and to the desired size and shape. Position
the underlayment and pond liner allowing extra material to overlap
several inches into the pond. Plumbing from the pump can be brought
over into the stream or pool or again if using an external pond
filter this will be the start of the waterfall. Streams should be
dug wider than the finished size to make room for stone that will
be placed into the stream for the edging. Stone can be secured to
the liner with mortar or expandable foam. This will hold back the
water allowing it to spill over the stone creating the waterfall.
Connect the
pond liner to the skimmer, if one is being used, following the manufacturers
directions. Place the pipe or tubing in place leaving a few inches
extra to make your connections later.
Place the stone or other coping around the edge of the pond or water
garden. Arrange the copingstone around the edge of the pond and
fold the pond liner up behind the stone to slightly above the water
level. It is usually not necessary to mortar the stone into place
if it is of sufficient size to be stable. If using small stone or
if people will be walking around the edge then mortaring the stone
for stability may be required. Back fill with soil to hold the pond
liner against the stone. Fill the pond with water to within a few
inches from the top and then make corrections if necessary to ensure
that the pond is level. As the pond is filling remove wrinkles and
make folds as necessary.
Other methods of edging the pond or water garden. For most installations
having a necklace of stone around the pond or water garden does
not create a natural appearance. If your goal is to make your pond
blend into the landscape in a natural setting then you will want
to consider other methods of edging the pond. Besides the traditional
method of edging with a thin stone on the edge overlapping the pond
you can also use one or more layers of stone built up from the shelf.
This provides a more natural appearance and will allow the water
to fluctuate without seeing the liner. You can also create a cobblestone
beach edging by placing a large stone at the inside of a large shallow
shelf and filling the area with gravel and cobbles. You can naturalize
this area by planting shallow water plants. This will create a more
natural edge with plants partly in and partly out of the water.
You can plant bare root plants directly into the gravel or place
the plant with some soil still attached into the gravel. This will
help the plant to establish quicker.
Add dechlorinator to the pond to remove any chlorine or chloramines.
Add aquatic plants as soon as possible after constructing the pond
or water garden. Add a packaged bacteria to seed the pond filter
and pond. Fish should be added a few at a time over several weeks
to allow the bacteria to establish in your water garden.
The most important plant is Anacharis. This is an underwater plant
that uses up the nutrients that would otherwise feed the algae.
For ponds and water gardens under 25-sq. ft. use one bunch for every
square foot of pond surface area. For ponds 25 to 100 sq. ft. use
one bunch for every two square feet of surface area. For ponds 100
to 300 square feet use one bunch for every three-sq. ft. of surface
area. Use one bunch for every four square feet for ponds over 400
square feet in size. If you are keeping koi then a smaller upper
pool or plant protectors will be needed to keep them from eating
the Anacharis.
The next step
is to add water lilies and other plants with surface leaves to provide
shade to approximately 66% of the surface area if in full sun. If
less than full sun then less coverage is acceptable.
We hope you have found our information about building your own water
garden useful. If you have questions, please contact us at: consult@WaterGarden.com
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